How to choose

Three decisions, in this order

1. Receiver, or dock?

If your dash has a spare single-DIN aperture, the SR-120 goes straight in and drives your speakers itself. If it does not — and on most cars built after about 2010 it does not — do not cut a fascia to make one. The SR-220 sits in a cradle you can put where you like, lifts out in one movement, and moves to the house with the HOME-12.

2. Which aerial your roof will take

This is the decision that actually determines whether the thing works. A magnet needs steel: if your roof is steel, the ANT-30 is the cheaper and better answer, because you can move it until reception is right. Aluminium, composite or a full glass panel means a magnet has nothing to hold, and you want the adhesive ANT-55 — which is permanent, so measure twice. Long vans, workshops and shop floors usually need the EXT-20 extension as well.

3. How the sound gets into your stereo

Only relevant if you chose the dock rather than the dash receiver. If your stereo has a 3.5 mm socket you need nothing. If it has no aux input at all, the AUX-35 covers the three routes that exist — line in, FM direct injection, or USB-C. If the car has Bluetooth audio and nothing else, the BTL-05 is the one that works.

Then there is power. A cigarette-socket lead is fine as a temporary arrangement and poor as a permanent one; the PWR-12 taps an existing fuse and gives you a supply that comes up with the ignition. If the receiver is going behind the dash, add the HAR-DIN harness so nothing on the vehicle loom ever gets cut.